$199 Bathtub and tile refinishing reglazing resurfacing

$199 Bathtub and tile refinishing reglazing resurfacing

**Please read the frequently asked questions after the pricing section as it helps us both . We cannot possibly go over in detail every issue and different situation for every different type of refinishing job during a phone conversation if you are not well informed. Below the pricing section you will find 99% of what you need and want to know about the refinishing process. Feel free to ask me about the process and information below when we talk, thank you.

Clawfoot tub (** inside of tub refinish ). $299.00

**I do not do the outside of the clawfoot tubs. The outside does not require

a higher cost specialized coating as does the inside. You can use a standard paint

the color of your choosing and apply it with a brush/roller.

Fiberglass standard size tub with wall surround. $349.00

* Add $50 with ceiling .

* Add $35 when a shower door is present.

Fiberglass walk in shower:

Up to 36 » $249 / 42″ to 48″ $299 / 54″ to 60″ $349

* Add $50 with ceiling .

* Add $35 when a shower door is present.

* Oversize handicap quoted per job due to size differences .

Refinish standard size tub with surrounding 4 inch tile:

12 four inch tiles high x 24 four inch tiles wide = 288 tiles. $399.00

*Add .70 for each additional tile over 288 tiles that surround the bathtub.

*Check your grout condition if you have grout loss/damage you need to have it repaired before refinishing.

*Add $35 when a shower door is present.

****Full room tile refinishing, tile walk in showers, oversize garden/jacuzzi tubs quoted on a per job basis.

Bond a new top layer to cracked and/or soft

standard size fiberglass bottom up to 22″ X 46″. $ 299 .00

*A permanent solution for fiberglass, plastic and acrylic fixture bottoms.

The following is everything, you as a consumer, should know about refinishing and what some in this trade do not want you to know. Bathtub and wall tile refinishing, resurfacing and reglazing are all the same. Some companies use descriptions and terms to make it seem as if they are applying the original type of factory finish. They are not, everyone in this trade that travels to your site applies a coating over the factory finish. The process of an original factory finish can not be done in your bathroom. On cast iron and steel tubs the factory coating is baked on at 1500 F and that is not happening in your bathroom. If you get the feeling they are coming across as if they do a factory type refinish then that should be a red flag. Class A factory finishes that are visually similar to a baked on finish are difficult if not impossible to duplicate on rough surfaces with deep damage. No coating will be visually 100% perfect mainly because it is applied in a bathroom and not in a environmentally controlled spray booth, so dust or other small particulates may land on the coating during and after the process (*how y ou can reduce this is explained later) . If anyone tells you different they are not being honest or they are not qualified to do the work. When done correctly with quality materials refinishing is an excellent long term cost effective option to replacement. All that being said there are no complicated super secret miracle methods of refinishing that can not be explained or are not allowed to be explained to you as some companies profess. Just common sense practices used for any surface preparation and coating application.

What separates reputable refinishers from the not so reputable are the materials and equipment used to do the job. The most common reasons for a coating to fail is the surface was not properly prepared, or all to often, just not prepared at all and/or the coating used is not made for water submersion. You can protect your wallet and property, if you ask the right questions and you know the correct process.

1. The first question is «What type of coating do you use?» The answer should be «A urethane coating.» If they are applying anything other than a water submersible urethane it will fail.

2. The second question is «How do you prepare the surface ?» The answer should be «On metal tubs, an etch or adhesive promoter is applied, and on fiberglass the surface is wet sanded.» If these steps are not done the coating will fail due to not being able to bond to the smooth nonporous surface.

3. The third question is «How do you apply the coating?» The answer should be «With a HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray system.» If they say that it is brushed and rolled applied, or sprayed from a spray paint can then they are most definitely up to no good.

Unfortunately some are just out to do sub standard work, not to provide a quality service. On this site I have pictures of what equipment a professional refinisher will bring to a job site (see the white **PAGE TWO** link in the black banner across the top of this page ).

You are paying good money for a service, so do not hesitate to send someone away if they arrive without the proper equipment and insurance. They need to carry commercial business insurance. The scammers and fly by night companies either can not pass the insurance companies background check or they just will not obtain the coverage. If they damage your property, who will pay for repairs if they have no coverage? I carry the original issued insurance policy to all job sites. Please advise the company you choose that you will want to see the policy before work starts. How they respond will aid you in your hiring decision.

I carry current invoices showing that I have purchased urethane and etcher, not generic hand written invoices anyone can buy at any office supply store. Ask the other companies if you can see their original invoices showing they use these products before they start. You are paying for these products to have the work done correctly, not just for the labor. Why would they not show you what you are paying for?

I am not charging to little for a quality refinish, others just charge more for the same process. What allows me to offer a lower price is that I am an independent refinisher with no franchise fees owed to a distant corporation. Also I just specialize in mobile refinishing bathtubs, showers and wall tile which keeps my operating costs lower than most. Where some others will refinish anything that does not run away and may do other trades which will increase their operating costs, I do not. Beware of the «price matcher» if they offer to match my prices then why not offer them to begin with. Most likely because they need the higher fees to make a profit because their cost of doing business is higher than mine. Do you want someone doing a job for you knowing they are taking a loss just to price match who then might not feel they owe you anything if an issue arises.

The following is extremely important

What s ho uld I do before you arrive.

I want you to have the best finish possible. Make sure you have *lighting *. *power * and *water * as they are all needed to properly refinish your tub. Without any one of these your tub can not be refinished. If the surface to be refinished has soap film. tile grout or any other material that needs to be scraped off an additional $20 fee will apply. To help prevent dust and debris from settling on to the finish while it is being applied, I ask that you would remove all the toiletries, knick knacks and floor items from the bathroom and wipe everything down then sweep the dust out of the bathroom. Some bathrooms are dustier than others but with your help a dust free bathroom will go a long way in giving you a beautiful finish. I have no control over dust and debris that are in your bathroom from landing on the coating. Make sure your hot and cold controls and water spout do not leak or have a constant drip. If the y are leak ing or dripping you should have th em fixed before the tub is refinished, so as not to expose your new tub surface to a repair where metal tools and parts are being used. I can work around most dripping spouts, but not the controls when the water is running down the wall into tub .

How long will it take?

The average debris free tub takes approximately 3 to 4 hours to complete. If your tub has been refinished once before or has soap build up and other materials, the process may take 4 to 5 hours. A fiberglass tub with three smooth walls may take 4 to 6 hours. A tub with three tiled walls 4 to 6 hours. All times are approximate and could run longer or shorter

How long will it last?

When done professionally, a refinished bathtub can last 10 plus years before you may want to have it refinished again. It will depend on the care and type of use it will be exposed to. Wall tile can last longer since tile is not typically being immersed in hot water and also not subject to the same chemicals as a bathtub. When not exposed to acid cleaners or caustic drain products your new surface will not peel or bubble up.

How long before I can use it?

Your refinished tub will take approximately 48 hours to completely cure. Cure time is critical in giving you a durable long lasting finish. Finishing products that claim a 6 to 24 hour cure time may be more convenient, but the end result of having to add a fast cure chemical is a brittle coating that will be more prone to chipping. I use one of the best american made urethanes. The 48 hour cure time of this urethane will give you a beautiful and durable finish.

Do you apply caulking?

I do not caulk, I will remove the old caulking on the area to be refinished. Companies offering same day caulking are not doing you a service when it is applied to a wet finish! A refinished bathtub needs at least 24 hours drying time before caulking should be done. Companies who offer to return the next day charge considerably more money than my up front refinishing fee to cover the return trip. My schedule usually does not permit me to return the next day even with an additional charge. If caulking is not your strong point there are companies who will do the job at considerable savings when you factor in that I have done half their job already by removing the old caulk.

My bathtub has been refinished before.

I refinish several bathtubs each week with prior coatin gs for only an additional $45 fee. Most others charge $75-$125 on top of their already higher refinishing fee .

How do I take care of my new surface?

No longer are you going to feel like you just had a workout after cleaning your tub scrubbing and scrubbing just to get it clean. The dirt, film and soap scum will wipe and rinse off without having to use abrasive cleaners, brushes or pads. Just use a non abrasive cleaner and sponge and then wipe the tub clean. I recommend these popular cleaners called Scrubbing Bubbles Bathroom Cleaner and Lysol Basin Tub & Tile Cleaner or their generic equals.

Is there a warranty?

$199 Bathtub and tile refinishing reglazing resurfacing

Yes, there is a 5 year NO PRORATE warranty on your new finish. Ask the other guys if their warranty is prorated, which is a joke. With a prorate they will charge you a percentage of what you paid them for their original work, seriously they want you to pay for their failure. With the process I use, I do not prorate because there are no failures from coating application because I do all the work. The only issues occur when instructions are not followed such as exposure to acid cleaners or caustic cleaners and drain products. I do not cover neglect, chipping or scratches due to impact.

Is there a strong smell?

An industrial exhaust system is used to vent the fumes out of the house not a small box fan like some use. The fumes will be vented out through a window or door and the odor will be minimal. Keep in mind that the actual spraying process only takes 30 to 60 minutes and once the the spraying process is complete any minor fumes or odor will dissipate out of the house within 10 to 20 minutes. You will of course still have a coating odor in the bathroom where the work was done. The door will be closed once the work is completed and the odor in the bathroom will dissipa te as your new finish dries.

How durable is the finish?

I use one of the best urethane products in the country. The new urethanes that are available today are incredible! They look like porcelain, they are meant to be immersed in water and they are very durable with the ability to expand and contract with temperature changes plus having flexibility. With normal use your new finish can last 10 plus years at which point you can simply have it refinished again. Much easier than tearing out a tub every 10 plus years and a lot less expensive. Refinished tile can last longer as the tile is not typically being immersed in hot water and also not subject to the same wear as a bathtub.

Is white the only color available?

Y ou can have your new finish in these colors. The most common is bright white then off white and bisque .

What if my bathtub has chips?

Small scratches, chips and cracks on flat areas are filled by the primer and final coating as part of the process with no extra charge. Unscrupulous refinishers won’t tell you that and will charge you. Some large chips, cracks and scratches can be repaired during the prepping process with a filler for an additional fee, which varies on amount of work needed.

Do you refinish clawfoot bathtubs?

Yes I refinish claw foot tubs on site, some companies require the tub to be transported to them I do not .

What if my tub has rust spots?

Many older tubs and sometimes the newer ones will have rust stains from iron in the water or actual rust where the porcelain has been worn through and allowed rus ting. D uring the prepping process rusted areas are cleaned and sanded.

Do you need to remove the drain?

In most situations it is not necessary to remove the drain. If your metal drain ring where the water goes down is new or is in good shape there is no reason why the drain would have to be removed. If you had been thinking about replacing your drain ring, now is a good time to do so. You need to have it removed just prior to my arrival (keep the old drain there I need it). Removal tools are available at do it yourself stores. Do not install the new drain if you have rust in the area. I will clean and sand so as to not have an issue later. Then you can install it after the coating dries. *Some drains having been in place for many decades may require a plumbers help. I use water to clean the tub so it has to have a drain pipe in place for the water to be carried away.

Do shower doors need to be removed?

Yes, shower doors will need to be removed to get access to the bathtub for refinishing. Only the doors will have to be removed and «not» the track on the tub step over or the tracks on the side walls. The tracks will be carefully masked off before spraying. *If you are not able to remove the doors yourself, I will gladly remove them for you with the understanding that I am not responsible for any damage to your doors. I do not remove tracks, please remove them if you no longer want shower doors or are updating the door(s).

What finish do you use?

I use a quality American made Urethane .

Epoxies: First used when tub refinishing became available. Now you will only find the fly by night companies using epoxies. They will yellow over time and are not meant to be immersed in water.

Acrylics: Acrylics were a great improvement over epoxies. The tub refinishing

industry started putting out better looking tubs.

Many refinishers are still using the Acrylics to save on their cost.

Urethanes : They are meant to be immersed in water. With their expansion and contraction abilities, they are the most durable and they will not yellow over time. Most reputable bathtub refinishers are using the new Urethanes available today. When it comes to your new finish I spare no expense .


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