Harbor Breeze Ceiling Fan Light Kit Wiring Household Fan Shop

Frequently Asked Questions

Does it go at high speed when you press the Low button? If so, it may be wired incorrectly. Ceiling fan speeds are regulated by a little device that gives power to either high, medium, or low settings; if you get high when you should be getting low, and so on, my guess would be that it’s wired so that the «high» wire is going to the «low» speed regulator.


Ceiling fan light won’t turn on and I have replaced the pull chain switch.?

I have a harbor breeze ceiling fan with a light kit. The light stopped working about a year ago. I have been researching online and found that it could be the pull chain switch. This made sense since the light stopped working when my son hit the pull chain fairly hard. I replaced the pull chain switch and the light is still not working. Help!

What are the chances that the switch you put in is bad out of the box??

You are going to have to use a circuit tester. They have them for cheap. The tricky part is that they work on live circuits with the electricity applied. There is another method called a continuity tester, which is used on cold circuits without electricity. These will beep or buzz when electrical continuity is good. You’ve rolled the dice, now you are going to have to investigate.

Lets go with a buzzer, OK? Start with a light bulb in hand. Touch the probes to the center with one and the outer threads with the other. Do this till you find one that the buzzer, buzzes on. That’s a good one. Put it into a socket of the lamp and see if it will burn bright. No. Turn off at the wall again and the fan stops turning. Drop the light fixture from the fan and remove it. Test the 2 wires that were supposed to be taking power from the fan. Buzz or No-buzz? NO. **Test from the socket rim of one of the lamp sockets to the White wire. NO. Try with the black wire instead. NO? Good. It is not supposed to. There is a problem with the continuity in the return line somewhere.

However if at the ** test above it did Buzz, then move on to testing the other side, the black supply side of the circuit. This one includes the switch you replaced earlier. Disconnect both ends of the switch. Of the wires connecting up to the switch, Find the one that will buzz with the black from the fan. The other should buzz to the center pin of an empty socket. Then buzz out the switch itself, re-testing it as you toggle with pulls on the chain. If all of this buzzes correctly, then a wire from above the fan has come loose, and you will have to drop the whole fan to find it.

But first, if you are comfortable with live wires, you can use a circuit tester to see if in fact there is electricity extended down through those 2 wires to the light kit.


New Ceiling fan & light combo — Only powers 1 of 3 lights?

I have Harbor Breeze fan that uses 3 candelabra light sockets at a maximum of 40W each.

The problem is that it lights one bulb fine, but add another and they both get really dim. Add a third one and it doesn’t light at all. Using 13W CFLs — one light is super luminous, but will not light more than one.

The fan blade will only run at it’s lowest speed — no faster. Also, the fan will not run without the light turned on too.

What to do now?

First, if the fan won’t run without the light turned on, you have wiring issues. Second, if the fan is weak, and the light circuit is weak, too, you have low voltage — could be related to the wiring issue, could be wire nuts aren’t tight enough, might be a preexisting problem. Start by taking the fan down, use a multitester to check voltages at ceiling — if you don’t know how to use it, get someone to help you install this first one, it’s the best way to learn this stuff. If voltages OK, reinstall the fan, being sure to put black to black, blue (or red) to blue, white to white, and ground to ground. Be sure the wire nuts are really tight. Now try it again. The bulbs are fine. The fan should have been prewired to the light kit, but if not, you need to look at the wiring there, too.


Harbor Breeze light kit module?

There is a module inside my Harbor Breeze Springfield ceiling fan for the light kit and I dont know what it does. The LIGHT SWITCHED HOT wire and NEUTRAL wire go into the module, and NEUTRAL and LIGHT HOT SWITCHED come out of the module into the light kit. The module is black plastic, has a metal piece on the bottom of it used as a heat sink for something on a circuit board inside the module. Any ideas what the module is? It’s just freely sitting inside the light kit connection area in the fan, not attached to the side.

Question is, what are the dangers if I take it out? It isnt an auto dimmer thing. It may be a thermal protection.

Im using the Lutron Maestro IR switch and it is not working with this module. If I take the module out my lights will work fine.

Your POSITIVE it’s the passive rheostat (dimmer)? All ceiling fans manufactured since January 2009 have been required to have one, dimming the lights down to 190 watts if more than 190 watts (total) was installed. The Springfield was new for 2009. My guess is that it is this passive rheostat having problems with the change in voltage from your Lutron. And, if you have installed 60 watt bulbs instead of the recomended 40, I garrauntee that this is your problem.

As for causing problems if you remove it, you’ll make Al Gore mad because now you can create a bit more carbon using up to 50 watts more than you are allowed. Let him stew on it while on his jet or in a limo that gets 15 miles to the gallon at best.


Problem with remote controlled Harbor Breeze ceiling fan?

Has anyone else had a similar problem with Harbor Breeze brand ceiling fans with a remote?

We bought a 52 in. Triton ceiling fan at Lowes (model #192900). It is a fan/light kit combination with a remote control for the light and fan controls. Unless my house is haunted, the remote is activating itself and turning on the fan.

After our contractor installed it, it happened several times. The fan/light is in the master bedroom and is hard wired leaving the remote as the only way to turn it on or off. We would walk in and the fan would be on high when we know it was off. Other times, we would have it on low during the night and wake up in the middle of the night to it twirling on high. In these cases, I would simly grab the remote and turn it either to off or low.

We recently got back from vacation and I went into the bedroom to find the fan running on high. Also, the little light behind the Harbor Breeze emblem on the remote was lit. It SHOULD light up when you press a button on the remote and then fade out after a period of time.But, the light was on constantly. I had to press almost all of the buttons in order to get it to turn off and then yank the (new) battery. Last night, the remote actually lit up and the fan turned on while I was watching it.

I’m going to contact Lowes today and see about getting a new remote. Now, I know our contractor didn’t change the channel (frequency) of the transmitter and receivier from the default. I was thinking that someone nearby could have a similar fan on the same frequency, but that would not cause the remote to light up. I think the remote is defective.

Has anyone else had asimilar issue with a similar Harbor Breeze remote control unit?

Yes, I replaced the battery in the remote.

As I said, our contractor installed it. But, having looked at the instructions, the receiver is above the canopy. I assumke that means that, in order to try changing the frequency (which I DON’T think is the problem), I have to all but yank the entire fan.

I just called them and they are shipping out a new remote and new receiver.

And no. this is the only remote fan/light in the house.

I bought and installed two of these fans in June; last weekend both remotes went out. We tried the battery but that didn’t work. When we realized that replacing the batter wasn’t going to work, my husband (who is an electronics technician with a major global electronics manufacturer) took the remote apart and discovered the circuit board was defective. I tried to get Lowes to replace the remote but they didn t agree with my assessment that their product was defective so I ended up having to get a new remote at bucks!


Ceiling fan light with Maestro IR dimmer?

I have a Harbor Breeze Springfield 52″ fan. Also have a Maestro IR dimmer to control it.

The configuration is pretty straight forward. 14/3 runs up to the light from the switch, and there is a hot in the box. Hooked the fan control up just fine (it’s a 4 position fan control switch) — Hot in to red in the 14/3. Fan works just fine.

The same hot goes to one side of the maestro, then the black in the 14/3 goes to the light.

Doesn’t work. No ceiling fan light comes on, no green indicator lights come on on the switch.

Replaced the switch with another Maestro IR, doesn’t work.

Replaced the switch with a Maestro SP dimmer, doesn’t work.

Replaced the switch with a standard SP switch, works great.

When the Maestro IR is hooked up, taking two screwdrivers and jumping out both screws makes the light come on.

And yes, the ceiling fan light kit chain is in the on position (or it wouldn’t come on by jumping the terminals).

The bulbs are standard 40W candleabra bulbs (incandescent).

There is NOTHING SPECIAL going on here, why is it not working?

Tested both Maestro IRs on a circuit with 5 60w incandescent recessed lights and it works fine. The Maestro Single pole switch currently controls my kitchen lights, it works just fine. Tested.

Therefore it seems like there would be something going on in the fan to prevent the Maestro IR from working. Lutron Tech Support says to replace the fan.

But why? It’s just a wire connecting four lightbulbs together, right?

I haven’t disassembled the fan yet to do some testing, hoping someone else has a solution before I tear the thing apart.

I tested on another Harbor Breeze Springfield fan, and same problem.

I use a Maestro multi-location dimmer (3 locations) on a Harbor Breeze Halstrom fan, and it works just fine. Different light kit, but same light bulbs.

BTW, this is new construction.

I am thinking it must have to do something with the fan. Even though I jump it out and it works, there is something in the circuit (the fan) that is causing the «computer» inside the Maestro IR to not work properly. For example, the Maestro IR will not work at all if you have compact flourescent bulbs.

I already tried flipping the wires, thinking that may have something to do with it. Didn’t fix it.

Try flipping which terminal your wires from the 14/3 are connecting to on your switch. Since the lights come on when you jump the connection it sounds like there isn’t a connection being correctly made at the switch, rather than the fan being the culprit.

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