How-To Paint a Ceiling Medallion destashio

How-To Paint a Ceiling Medallion destashio

How-To Paint a Ceiling Medallion

I have always wanted to paint one of these decorative ceiling medallions and last week an old client of mine handed me an unfinished one simply asking me to do my magic. I was all over it.

If you havent seen these you can find them almost anywhere that sells lighting. This one came from Home Depot and is made of foam. They come primed and ready to paint.

I chose to use Modern Masters metallic paint in the color Brass which coordinates with the other fixtures in the room where this will be installed. The glazing brush Im using came from Pierre Finkelsteins collection and is perfect for getting into the nooks and crannies on this piece.

Metallic paint will show brush marks if you try to simply brush it on, making it look streaky. Its best to use a stippling, pouncing motion to not only get the paint in the crevices but to also give the paint a more even finish. This paint is a little transparent so it required three coats.

When the three coats of brass were on I painted the inside and outside rings with two coats of an off white latex paint. The latex was in a satin finish which is important because I planned on glazing it. If I had painted it with craft paints or matte latex the glaze wouldnt work properly and the piece would end up too dark and splotchy.

The chandelier that will hang under this medallion is chrome and glass, so I decided to add aluminum leaf on one part of the molding and on a couple small pieces on the inside carving. The first step in applying leaf is applying a liquid size which is very runny so I taped off the ring to prevent the size from dripping where I didnt want it to go.

I use Rolco Aquasize because its water based and dries faster. Traditional oil-based size takes forever to tack up. I buy the metal leaf from Royal Design Studio. which is really close to my house and has a great selection. You can buy online from them as well.

Apply the size in thin layers with a soft brush. The size is the consistency of water so theres really no way to put on a thick coat. It takes 25 minutes to dry and get tacky. If after 25 minutes its not tacky enough, put on one more thin coat.

A quick note on metal leafing:  True metal leafing is an art form that takes years to master and pristine tools and environments. What Im describing here is what I call Crafters Leafing. Im just gluing on shiny metal. Im breaking every rule of leafing, and Im fully aware, so theres no need to point it out.

Metal leaf comes in square sheets and is lighter than air, so dont do this outside or near an open window, or while youre blow drying your hair. Simply lay a piece of leaf over an area with size. It will stick immediately.

I used a small soft brush to press the leaf into the crevices. Dont press it with your fingers because the oil on your hands can discolor the leaf.

When all the leaf is on, burnish or rub softly with a sheepskin pad. This will even out the sheen and remove any little flakes lying around.

If there are places where the leaf is missing, it just means you missed a spot when you were applying size. Thats easy to do when working with light colors because the size is transparent. Apply more size to the spot and add leaf when its tacky. It will blend in when you burnish it.

After I burnished the leaf I noticed that it had left grey smudges along the edges. I touched it up with the latex paint before moving on to the next step.

I wanted to age the whole piece so I mixed up a very dark glaze and applied it heavily in small sections. Dont glaze the whole piece at once or the glaze will dry before you can rag it off.

The glaze I use isnt readily available to DIY people, but if I could give you a recipe I would tell you to  go to an art supply store and pick up Goldens Acrylic glaze and Van Dyke Brown fluid acrylic. I would mix one part pigment to six parts glaze. Always test it before slopping it on the whole piece.

Once you get the glaze on a section, remove it from the high points with a soft rag. Leave the glaze in the crevices.

I use a soft hake brush to stipple the glaze in the low flat areas. It evens out the glaze, blends it with the adjoining section and gets rid of smears. Work in small sections around the piece, glazing the outside molding last. Acrylic glazes take 24 hours to dry completely and may take even longer where the glaze puddles in the crevices.

I love how the glaze settled in the outside molding. It took just enough shine off the aluminum leaf to make it pretty and not garish.

So there it is. Ill post a picture of it when it gets hung with the chandelier. Theyre really happy with it and I had a lot of fun painting it. Now its your turn!

A small note: this didnt end up being the final product thanks to the clients wanting more metal leafing. Please go to this post to see the real final product.


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