Customer Discussions cover old ceiling with 38 drywall

 Customer Discussions cover old ceiling with 38 drywall

cover old ceiling with 3/8 drywall

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 8, 2008 10:26:42 PM PST

Last edited by the author on Dec 8, 2008 10:28:35 PM PST

plz dont listen to D. Chaney, dont glue anything up there.

id use 1/2 if you cover your tiles, they are 12 square so you should have no problem attaching 12 on center to your furring strips, then you will be relying on the strength of the furring strips, it will probably be tough to hit all the joists, but if you can then even better.

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 22, 2008 7:55:04 AM PST

cover old ceiling with 3/8 drywall

M. Hutson says:

My ceiling has ARMSTRONG 12x12tiles stapled to furring strips; there’s plaster and lathe between furing strips and joist.

Can I attache the drywall flush against the ceiling tiles with 10×6 drywall screws? Or, Do I have to remove any of this before applying 3/8 drywall?

Handy Guy says: If you can hit the joists and screw every 8, you will be OK.

Allan says:

I would not put 3/8 drywall on a ceiling. If you do, expect it to sag.

*IT’s not that the sheet would sag with proper screw layout, it will follow any ripple and wave that may be present with the old ceiling. Use ceiling panel jacks and on site built T bars to hold tight to the ceiling minimum of 1/2 rock to 5/8.

Homes of this vintage have joists much stronger than current structures, so this added weight is fine and by the square foot not that much.

1/4 and 3/8 is used to make arched doorways, not large areas as ceiling spans.

*ONE WAY* Cost effective, updated electrical, and a positive joist location for any cabinets.

Assuming it’s attic space, the old 12 x 12 tiles are pretty good insulation to start with.

The furring strips are 90 degrees to the joists.

You can screw into furring strips, but screw strip out is possible and or the strips

will split. So test the strips with the screws to be used to be sure it’s secure.

There are trick tools I make on the spot to determine where the joists are from in the room.

Electronic stud finder devices might work picking up the nail heads on the furring strips, but you will need to verify in this mixed medium.

But to be sure in the complex medium your dealing with, it would be advised to use a 1/4

telephone drill bit 18 long and from the attic, drill down through the ceiling along the joist to

verify location and run direction.

Drill one hole about every 3 feet along the joist.

Now from below snap line the entire ceiling where joists measure to be from holes drilled.

Now test with drill and screw to see if your still on target into joists.

Covering the tiles will provide an extra layer of protection from heat loss to the attic.

Cover entire ceiling with vapor barrier, and then mount rock.

**Prior to mounting vapor barrier and rock, make any needed electrical runs for future can lights or ceiling fans. Photo every detail.

I would drag a run of 12/3, or 12/4 into the ceiling so you have all the power options later.

Straight line the ceiling to make sure any low spots have added shim added to correct low spots to level and glue it in place to be screwed through.

Old concrete plaster is never level when applied.

*** COSTLY, and more than a HUGE MESS***

This operation can shorten your life if proper protection is omitted.

A cloud of never ending cement dust that is more hazardous than a collapsed coal mine.

Let alone the mice debris mixed in.

Years of remodeling 100 year old homes complete down to studs and bare joists with plaster removal is always done carefully.

If you let the bottom of walls fill with cement debris, you only make updating electrical, and plumbing almost impossible.

If this room has separate entrance, then Seal off all doorways with plywood, or heavy 2 inch thick styrofoam. You can use heavy plastic sheet, and canvas, but it gets violated in short order.

Seal off any ductwork.

Use fans in opposite windows blowing in and out. Taking note of wind direction. Winter makes this a challenge.

Use the largest fans that can be mounted in the windows w/o screen which causes flow restriction.

If fans are used in windows that are too close together, one fan will bring in what the other just blew out.

Using fans in the middle of a room does nothing but remix everything.

Protect flooring. Large pieces can freefall on edge and make a permanent impact.

Cover wood floors with carpet and then canvas over that to be able to pull all the loose debris out the door to the dumpster.

Large 5 gallon pails to load the large pieces.

Shop vac using the largest model to keep area debris and dust free.

Add water and one drop of dish soap to vac to keep dust from exiting the vac back into the room.

And clean the vac every time it’s used.

Date of this building is probably somewhere about mid 50’s.

The timber will be hard as steel. Treat it as oak.

You will need to pre-drill before using large and long screws.

Timbers can split, or screws will snap off if not pre-drilled for screws.

Old timber should never be pounded on excessive. Fracture of connecting plaster not meant to be removed, or other hidden damage can occur.

Nails will refuse to give up when pulling them. They will need to be cut off.

Custom scaffold to work close to the ceiling without ladders will speed the mission and keep it safe, and tools close at hand. Use plenty of work lights.

Expect the worst, and the job will go much easier.


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